2015-2020 Mustang GT Roush Cut and Clamp H-Pipe Sound Clip & Review
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2015-2020 Mustang GT Roush Cut and Clamp H-Pipe Sound Clip & Review


Hey, guys, it’s Joe from AmericanMuscle and
today we’re gonna be taking a closer look at the Rough Cut and Clamp H-Pipe fitting
all ’15 and newer GTs. Now, this is gonna be a great option for you
if you’re looking for a budget-friendly exhaust upgrade that’s really gonna bring that muscle
car rumble. So, as you guys just heard, we went and took
this thing out for a spin, we did a couple revs and this thing really is going to add
to the volume, three out of five on my wake the neighbor scale here. Definitely not gonna be busting any eardrums,
definitely still daily drivable if you’re going with just a mid-pipe like this one. However, if you wanted to back this up with
a set of Roush axle backs, you’re easily in cat-back territory there and I’m gonna give
that setup a four out of five on the wake the neighbor scale. It’s a good way to go about this, you get
a few choices here, you can either go with lower volume H-pipe here and if you want to
upgrade in the future, you could always do that with a set of axle backs. A mid-pipe like this one is gonna be a direct
replacement for that factory resonator. We are gonna have to cut out that factory
resonator. We’re gonna show you how that works in just
a second here but upgrading to a mid-pipe like this one is going to be a good move. I call that factory resonator the briefcase,
simply put, it’s gonna act like another muffler and nobody that owns a Coyote motor wants
that and this is gonna be like I’ve been saying here a huge upgrade. This mid-pipe is made out of 304-grade stainless. Typically that is the highest grade stainless
you’ll see on exhaust. It’s an upgrade from the factory stuff which
is 409 stainless, that’s gonna develop some surface rust, however, not with this 304-grade
stainless. That’s gonna be a consideration if you live
in a wintry area that gets snow on the ground during the winter months, that comes with
salt trucks on the road as well. And that is the bane of existence for any
exhaust system out there. This 304-grade stainless steel should hold
up really really nicely though. You might see a little bit of discoloration
but this is going to last for years to come and it’s gonna look good for years to come. On top of that, you do get a little bit of
weight saving which is a nice touch. It’s good to cut weight wherever you can,
especially on a convertible model like this one. Overall, over the factory resonator, you save
about 12 pounds and that is definitely easier than going to the gym for a couple months. There’s not much going on in terms of design
here. However, there are a few nice touches, this
is going to be two straight pipes that run all the way down, you do have a crossover
right here in the middle, obviously making it an H-pipe. There’s a very slight bend in this pipe on
the passenger side and that is going to be a mandrel bend. That’s a nice touch in terms of building quality,
that’s gonna make sure that the exhaust flow is nice and smooth. Now, a huge benefit about a mid-pipe setup
like this is it doesn’t touch your catalytic converters. So, this is completely street legal in all
50 states. On top of that, if you have a convertible
like we’re working with today, we’re gonna talk about that a little bit more in just
a second here. There’s some extra bracing under here and
by going with just a mid-pipe like this one, you don’t have to deal with any of that. So, this is gonna be a good upgrade if you
can find a cat-back that’s gonna fit around that convertible brace, some of them do, most
of them do not. Another consideration here is if you have
the active exhaust on your car, this is gonna be a good option because this is not going
to interfere with that at all, the valve system is in the muffler. So, by going with a mid-pipe, this is going
to give you a little bit more noise out of that active exhaust. Now, one thing I do wanna make a quick note
on here, the differences between the H-pipe and the X-pipe. An H-pipe like this, it’s gonna give you a
little bit more of a deeper tone, sort of a muscle car rumble, X-pipe is gonna be full
out raspiness. Now, that’s not to say that’s a bad thing. However, this gen three Coyote is already
pretty raspy to begin with. It’s just a choice between two tones. What do you like more, that sort of muscle
car rumble or do you like that full-on race car raspiness? Now, let’s talk a little bit about pricing
and this is where things get even better for our Roush Cut and Clamp H-Pipe here, we’re
looking at about 250 bucks. Now, considering that an axle back system
can cost you anywhere from 700 all the way up $1,000 and the full-on cat-back can cost
you north of 1,500 bucks, this is gonna be a great budget-friendly way to upgrade your
exhaust. Install for this isn’t going to be too bad. We’re gonna be dealing with a convertible
today so there is a little bit of bracing we’re gonna have to remove but that gives
us a great opportunity to really highlight the differences between the convertible and
the fastback underneath. We’re gonna show you what that looks like
in just a second here. On top of that there is just a tiny bit of
cutting involved. We’re going to do that once we get the factory
exhaust system office car and onto the ground. I’m gonna give it a two out of three wrenches
on our difficulty meter. At most I think this will take you about two,
three hours to get done with a saw and nothing but some basic hand tools. So, without any further ado, let me show you
what tools you’ll need and how it’s done. Tools we used for this install are going to
include an impact, U-joint, 15 and 13-millimeter sockets, a ratchet, 6-inch extension, sharpie,
safety glasses, tape measure, a saw and to deburr our cut we used a die grinder with
the sanding pad. So, here we are under our ’19 convertible. And if you’ve ever been under a fastback,
this brace right here and these rails all the way down the side, it’s gonna look a little
bit new to you. Reason being is when you cut the roof of the
car, you lose a lot of that structure. So, that needs to be made up in other ways. We got a heavy IRS system back here, we got
a Coyote engine up at the front and otherwise all that would connect the two would be a
floorboard. Now, reinforcement can come in the door sills,
that’s where it usually is. The S550 also has this brace right here. This is why convertibles are usually heavier. However, in our case for exhaust work, you
can see our exhaust is on top of the brace. So, this has got to come out, luckily it’s
only bolted in though, there’s 15 15-millimeter bolts, we’re going to remove all those and
it should fall right away. We’re gonna leave that last one in for now,
that’s just gonna hold it up there. And this last one here is slotted so we’re
only gonna loosen that up and then we’re gonna hit the other side. Now, we’re gonna remove that bolt we left
in at the rear earlier and then we’re gonna remove this from the slotted bolts that we
left in. Now we have a clear shot at the exhaust. We’re gonna start the removal process, we’re
gonna start by loosening these two clamps up by the front. 15-millimeter socket to do so. Next we’re gonna go all the way to the back,
we’re gonna unbolt these hangers from the car. I like doing it this way, I think the installation
process is easier with these unbolted as you only have to clip this in all the way at the
top to get this to sit exactly like this. If you don’t, however, have a U-joint to get
to these bolts you can just back this out of the hanger by loosening up the other hangers
on the exhaust. We’re gonna show you those in a second. And there’s one more 13-millimeter bolt at
the top. And then we’re going to do the same thing
over on the other side. Now that we have the hardware out we can go
ahead and push up on those hangers and they’ll unclip from the body. There’s also two other hangers, they’re bolted
in with a 13-millimeter bolt as well. They also have that clip up at the top. Once we remove these bolts, we’re just gonna
push up again, remove those clips, and we can pull the whole exhaust out as one. So, now that we have our exhaust off of our
Mustang, we can go ahead and mark and make our cut. One thing I do wanna note is you wanna flip
this over and work from the underside of the exhaust. That is how Roush does their measurements. And that measurement is going to be five and
a half inches from the rear of the resonator body. Right about there. Now, we’re gonna go ahead and grab the Sawzall,
metal blade, make a nice straight cut across our exhaust. So, now that we have our factory resonator
cut off for our exhaust system, I figured now would be the perfect time to sit it down
next to our new H-pipe, point out some key differences between these two. Basically what is gonna make this guy so much
better than this one over here. First thing’s first, let’s talk exhaust gas
restriction. This is basically one big suitcase like I
said earlier, this is gonna hold up your exhaust gases, exactly what you don’t want in an exhaust
system. However, this is going to improve daily driving
if you’re just looking to get from point A to point B quietly, this is exactly what you
want. However, if you’re a Mustang owner like me,
I got to hear that Coyote motor and this is where our new H-pipe is going to come into
play. This is really gonna free up that exhaust
restriction. Basically this is just two straight-through
pipes with one crossover in the middle. Like I said earlier, this is going to give
us a little bit of a muscle car rumble rather than an X-pipe that’s gonna be a little bit
more raspy. This is gonna be the same size as our exhaust
as well, two and a half inches. Now, the last thing I wanna talk about is
material. You can see our old resonator here, it’s got
a little bit of surface rust on there, it is magnetic and that leads me to believe that
this is 409 stainless steel. Now, that is well and good, most factory exhaust
systems are gonna be made out of that. However, what I do know for a fact our new
H-pipe, this is 304 stainless. It’s never gonna develop the surface rust
you see over here on the resonator and might discolor a little bit with heat but it is
definitely going to be structurally sound way longer than your Mustang is gonna last. So, a huge upgrade in sound, a huge upgrade
in materials used and that is well and good in my book. So, now we’re gonna head back over to our
Mustang. We’re gonna take this with us as well some
of the clamps that come with it. So, here we are ready to drop this into our
existing exhaust. Before we do, one thing I need to point out
here is this is not symmetrical across sides. The passenger side is gonna have a little
bit of a bend to it. So, you just wanna make sure this is oriented
properly before getting it started in those clamps. Now, what we’re gonna do after that is go
ahead and slide on the clamps for the rest of our exhaust. Before we go ahead and put this exhaust up,
you can see there a little bit of burring around the circle here. We’re gonna go ahead and clean that up with
the sanding pad on the die grinder. And then we’re just gonna go get those pipes
started and clip in the hangers to our Mustang. And same thing go over on the other side. For the next step here, we’re gonna bolt back
down all of our hangers using a 13-millimeter socket and the factory hardware. Now, we’re just gonna tighten the rest of
our clamps with a 15-millimeter socket. These ones on our H-pipe, we’re just gonna
turn those up toward the middle just to get a little bit more clearance. Last but certainly not least, we’re gonna
tighten down these factory clamps up at the front. Now, if you have a fastback, you can skip
this step, we’re gonna reinstall our convertible bracing. That is gonna do it for my review and install
of the Roush Cut and Clamp H-Pipe fitting all ’15 and newer GTs. As always guys, thank you guys so much for
watching. Keep it right here at AmericanMuscle for all
things Mustang.

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